In the 1990s fancy fishcakes were popping up on restaurant menus up and down the UK. While fishcakes were nothing new, these reimagined patties were upscaled on multiple levels. Occasionally they arrived oversized, cocksure and dominating the plate and daring you to eat more that you sensibly should. But mostly they came served in pairs roughly 8cm in diameter and coated in an assortment of crumb mixes. A far cry from the highly processed, mushy cakes found in the freezer department, these "homemade"restaurant versions were packed with pink salmon and crab and well salted french fries liberally dressed with herbs were their regular bedfellows. This was my dish of choice throughout the 90s and even now I'll still give fishcakes a shot if I find them on a menu, but they are never as good as they were during this renaissance period.

I wasn't particularly thinking about fishcakes when I picked up Ottolenghi's book Simple in search of inspiration. The marrying of sweet sticky roasted parsnips with smoked haddock sounded tasty so I decided to add his recipe to this week's menu. Experimenting with sourdough bread this morning, I had plenty of time between mixing, proofing and folding to prepare the patties in advance to cook and serve them tomorrow.

By late afternoon, with the kids clamerouring for pizza I ditched the idea of cooking teriyaki salmon with a red lentil salad (it can wait until another day) and instead had a glass of fizz and cooked a few of the fishcakes served in pitta with a homemade tartare sauce from the fridge.